Country, the mouse with the cute little farmer hat to Geoffrey Zakarian's Town city mouse, passed my all-important martini test and more on a recent blustery New York night. The martini test is the litmus by which a swanky but all-too-possibly overrated establishment is judged on the drinkability of what should be, but what should not taste like, a mere cup of pure grain alcohol. With my inebriation taken care of, then, in a perfectly smooth glass of chilled Ketel One, the rest of this place could shine like the star that its glamorous interior demands. The food would be great if just served on its own, but with a side of cheese grits it verged on perfection. The stunning room is the piece-de-resistance, however, with an old-fashion mosaic floor paired with a cubist's dream of a four-sided bar. Were it not for the inattentive service and staff, I could have holed up in this at once comfy and sprawling café for the duration of what I wished would be a very long storm.