Country, New York
Geoffrey Zakarian's new and stylish, chef-driven restaurant is sure to please with its family-style European-American cuisine, writes George Epaminondas. Patrons at New York's just-opened Country, a restaurant located in the Carlton hotel, quaff cocktails, nibble on finger food and then sit down to a big wholesome meal, family style. There are no menus here, just a few starter options, a main course and a couple of desserts. That most New Yorkers would be loathe to cede their culinary rights goes without saying, but chef Geoffrey Zakarian (of Town fame) is renowned enough to convince them. Refuseniks can always sup in the casual 120-seat cafe downstairs. Those who do give themselves over can enjoy dishes such as young lamb persillade and fricassee of shellfish and the cosy ambience of a private dinner party.